Research Vespa Motorcycle models including Vespa Motorcycle specs, Vespa Motorcycle dealers, Vespa Motorcycle reviews, Vespa Motorcycle comparison, Vespa Motorcycle for sale, Vespa Motorcycle pictures, and anything else related to Vespa Motorcycle. Haynes Shop Repair Manual #M3492 Vespa ET2 50/ET4 50/S 50/. Piaggio Vespa Scooters 1991-2009 New Haynes Workshop Manual Service Repair Piaggio. Piaggio NRG Power DD 50 cc 2005 to 2009. By yogibauer Apr 13, 2017. VESPA LX 50 Workshop Manual Vespa VESPA ET2 2001 Parts Vespa LX 50 User Manual. Vespa ET2 50 cc Scooter Custom Performance Carburetor Carb Stage 1 3 Jet. I have a vespa et4 125, 2001. And about 3 months ago I was going at about 55 miles per hour and suddently it cut down to 35miles/hour.

• Vespa Et4 Scooter

For Sale: Vespa 70th Anniversary Pack. Pack consists of brochure, 70th Anniversary button badge and 6x4 inch Vespa PX print. 22 page brochure highlights the 70th anniversary of Vespa and the special edition GTS, PX (no longer in production) and Primavera models. Includes full vehicle specifications.

Brochure may have very minor marks, smudges and creasing at the edges due to time spent in storage. Otherwise in very good condition. Very minor but visible scratching on badge surface. English Edition.

Payment via PayPal.

Hi, Juan if you have changed your engine size, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. Or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be 'PROPERLY' cleaned and reassembled 'CORRECTLY' before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: 'TIP' if your engine 'BOGS' you're not getting enough fuel. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.

1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet. If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch.

When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need. 126 Answers SOURCE: i'd say the carb is gummed up especially the pilot jet (#16158) in this pic of the USA carb.

May have to remove the carb & bowl and then remove the pilot jet (w/ flat head screw driver) and clean out the tiny holes.OR- the carb slide is installed backwards (turned 180 degrees). Its #16025 in the pic. I've done this before on my daughter's XR70 and Z50. You'll know if its this when you move the choke lever, RPMs increase and decrease. Hope this worked for you and was fast enough. Posted on Feb 06, 2009.

3567 Answers SOURCE: Pay special attention to the parts in red. DO NOT mix parts from the front carb with parts from the back carb. When removing adjuster screws and jets, count the number of turns to remove them, write it down, and replace with the same number of turns.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown.

You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.

Go to this site and you can download a free PDF service manual. Most all of the manuals are in English but some are not. There is no way to be sure without doing the download.

You can always delete it if in a foreign language. A “very helpful” rating on this answer? Posted on Jul 02, 2009. It's a pretty big job.

You need to be competent (and confident) with tools as well as diagnosing and repairing gas engines. Without knowing the details of your scooter, the overview is this: 1) Remove the carburetor (if mounted to the cylinder), exhaust pipe, cylinder head, cylinder and piston. 2) Have the cylinder bored out.

to provide the correct clearance between the cylinder and the piston (if different from the scooter manufacturer's clearance this information should be provided by kit manufacturer). 3) Modify the head (more machine work to reshape the combustion chamber to work with the larger bore). 3) Reassemble.

4) Modify the fuel system (usually a carburetor) to correctly fuel the now larger displacement engine. 5) Get the new set up running and then tune it to run properly without damaging itself from an incorrect fuel mixture. Some cylinders are aluminum with a steel sleeve that forms the bore that piston runs in. Some are aluminum with a thin nikasil coating on the aluminum bore.

These will be much more expensive to bore out as they will need to have the coating replaced after being bored out. Mar 19, 2013.

Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are: 1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking. Spark plug gap too close or too wide. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor. Battery nearly discharged.

Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Intake air leak. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.

Carburetor controls misadjusted. Damaged carburetor. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase. Faulty MAP, CKP, O2, and/or CMP sensors. Incorrect valve timing. Weak or broken valve springs.

Damaged intake or exhaust valve. For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Jul 16, 2012. Hi howardowen67.

You will get all the gaskets and parts needed to repair your carburetor in a carburetor repair kit. Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one. If the mower/weedeater/edger is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank. Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.

Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages. Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages. Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor. Keep in mind that the float for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instrucitons you get with the carburetor kit. When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.

But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position. Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper. That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started. This is a FREE answer,Please rate me Apr 27, 2011. Check your fuel filter in the fuel tank to make sure it is clean if it is then' Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.

Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages. Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.

Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor. Keep in mind that the float for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instrucitons you get with the carburetor kit. If the mower/weedeater is over a year old, then I also recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank. When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.

But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position. Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper. That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started. This is a FREE answer,Please rate me Aug 20, 2010. Hi, Wgrandy and the usual suspects are: 1.

Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the 'NEGATIVE' cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at 'BOTH' ends. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.

Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.

Accelerator pump damaged or not working. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line. Fuel tank empty. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.

A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.

For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.

Vespa Et4 Scooter

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Oct 22, 2017.