Champion Sprinkler Timer Manual
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'An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.' Nowhere is this truer than with irrigation valves. They are highly reliable and will last for years if you properly care for them.
But valves can be difficult to troubleshoot because many of the parts that could be causing the problems are hidden. By learning how irrigation valves work, you can troubleshoot almost any problem. Proper valve troubleshooting starts with a few basic questions:. Is the irrigation controller plugged in and properly programmed?.
Is the master water supply turned on?. Is water present to the valve?. Is the flow-control handle open?. Is sufficient water pressure and flow available?.
Is the pump working? Valves 101 Before troubleshooting begins, you must understand how irrigation valves work. Valves control the flow of water to sprinklers and can be mechanical, hydraulic, electric or a hybrid-know what kind you're dealing with. A valve stays closed because the surface area above the diaphragm is about two-and-half times larger than the pressurized surface area below the diaphragm. The difference causes a greater force above the diaphragm than below it. The valve traps the water, which fills the upper chamber. The valve will open only when the force above the diaphragm has been relieved.
This will happen electrically when the controller energizes the solenoid or manually when you use the manual bleed. The solenoid is a coil of electrical wire that, when charged with an electrical current from the controller, creates a magnetic force and pulls up a small, metal plunger inside the valve.
As the plunger rises, it dumps water from the chamber above the diaphragm to a lower (downstream) pressure area. This reduces the force above the diaphragm and the valve opens. To close a valve, the irrigation controller stops sending an electrical current to the solenoid. As the current terminates, the solenoid drops the plunger and stops the flow of water from above the diaphragm. The pressure above the diaphragm builds to a force greater than the pressure below the diaphragm, and the valve closes. This also occurs when you operate the valve manually.
Champion Sprinkler Company
When you open the manual bleed screw, you relieve the force above the diaphragm either to the atmosphere or to the downstream side of the valve. Electricity and Water A variety of conditions can cause an irrigation valve to malfunction.
But don't overlook the obvious. If the valve will not open, make sure you have turned on the water supply. You can check to make sure you have a water supply by manually opening or 'bleeding' the valve. There are two types of manual-bleed devices. The most common is an external manual bleed. It usually consists of a small knob on top of the valve bonnet that bleeds-or relieves-the water above the diaphragm.
The second type of manual-bleed device is an internal manual bleed. It is usually a lever on the solenoid or the solenoid itself. When you turn on the lever or activate the solenoid, water pressure above the diaphragm bleeds to the downstream side of the valve.
Turn the external manual-bleed screw or operate the internal manual bleed and check for water flow. Be aware that some valves incorporate both external and internal manual-bleed systems. If there is still no water flow to the valve, check the PVC line for breaks. Another common problem is lack of electrical signal (voltage) to the valve. To determine if the valve is receiving power, use a volt-ohm meter. From the irrigation controller, manually turn on the station you are troubleshooting. With the volt-ohm meter, check the voltage between the ground and the controller-station terminal.
Your reading should be 24 volts AC (VAC). If it is not 24 VAC, you need to determine the cause-which is usually a blown fuse in the controller or in the controller's transformer. While you are at the controller, check the entire irrigation program.
In many cases, a valve will not operate properly because of faulty controller programming. If your meter reads 24 VAC at the controller station wires, check the zone in question to make sure it's operating. Make sure that the controller has a programmed start time and run time and that the 'days-to-run' setting is programmed. Though this may seem elementary, an improperly programmed controller is one of the most common causes of valve malfunction-and usually the largest source of customer complaints. If the controller is working properly, check the voltage to the solenoid. With the controller turned off, skin the insulation off the two wires running from the valve solenoid to the splice. Make these cuts as close to the splice as possible.
Attach a voltmeter to the wire running from the splice-the voltage should read zero. Manually operate the irrigation controller, and check that you are receiving 24 VAC. It is normal to experience some voltage loss at the valve, but if the volt-ohm meter reads less than 20 VAC, the field wires have a problem. You need to find the source of this problem or replace the wires. After completing this test, cut out the original splice, and reconnect the wires. It's important to leave enough wire to make the splice. Contamination Because of its direct connection to piping from the main water line, a valve is susceptible to contamination from dirt and debris, especially if you use non-potable or effluent water.
To reduce the risk of contamination, most irrigation valves have a filter or screen to keep dirt out of the area above the diaphragm and the solenoid area. Dirt and debris trapped in the valve may cause it to 'weep.' The telltale sign of a weeping valve is excessive puddling at the lowest sprinkler after the valves have shut off. To check for excessive dirt, debris or algae buildup, turn the water off, remove the valve bonnet, and check the screens for contamination.
Some valves have filter screens directly below the solenoid, which can be removed with a small screwdriver or coin. Flush the screens with water to remove any debris. This is also a good time to check the diaphragm and valve seat for debris, wear or deterioration (note that some valves have these two components molded into one piece). The diaphragm, which is a large, rubber-like, flexible disc, is subject to deterioration. It can be nicked or torn by a trapped pebble or a build-up of grit.
The valve seat is the lower sealing surface in the valve body. Inspect it for nicks by running your finger over the lip of the valve seat. Replace the valve body if the valve seat is damaged. Check the diaphragm and the valve seat for cracks and wear. Replace them if they show signs of wear or deterioration. Reassemble the valve, turn on the water, and manually operate the irrigation controller to make sure everything is working properly.
Solenoids If you have checked the water supply, the power supply and the diaphragm and valve seat, and the valve is still malfunctioning, usually the only possibility left is a faulty solenoid. With the water turned off, unscrew the solenoid from the bonnet of the valve. Be careful not to lose the plunger or the small spring, which helps force the solenoid plunger downward. Inspect the solenoid plunger. The plunger is the small, metal piston with a rubber base inside the solenoid housing. The plunger must be clean and free of any debris.
To check the operation of the solenoid, manually turn on the valve or zone from the irrigation controller. If it's working, the solenoid plunger will be pulled into the solenoid body. Some irrigation-equipment manufacturers have designed 'captive' solenoid plungers. A small piece of plastic holds these types of plungers in the solenoid housing. If the valve has a captured solenoid, you will hear a sharp clicking sound when the solenoid energizes. If the solenoid is not working properly or if the solenoid plunger does not move freely in the solenoid housing, clean and retest it.
If it is still not working, replace the solenoid. Also, with the solenoid removed, check the small hole in the bonnet that allows water to pass from above the diaphragm to the downstream side of the valve. Check the opening with a paper clip or small piece of wire.
It is important not to enlarge this hole because it controls the opening and closing speed of the valve. By following these suggestions, you'll be able to save time and quickly get to the root of the problem when valve troubles occur. Laurie Berry is valve product manager with Rain Bird Sales Inc. (Azusa, Calif.).
Champion Sprinkler Timer Manuals
This model has been discontinued Please see the 2006i Single Station Battery Operated Digital Controller with 3/4' & 1' Manual Valve Actuator The Single Station Battery Operated Digital Controller with 3/4' & 1' Manual Valve Actuator is used to convert 3/4' and 1' brass or plastic manual anti-siphon valves to automatic operation. The 2006i battery operated irrigation controller uses features that include four start times per day, durations of up to 11 hours and 59 minutes, weekly program, Manual Run and Rain Off. The 2006i battery operated controller is factory assembled to fit 3/4' Champion and Orbit manual brass valves. Included in the package you will find a 1'adaptor and washer used to fit 1' Champion and Orbit manual brass valves, 3/4' and 1' Rain Bird and Rain Jet manual plastic valves, and 3/4' and 1' Orbit plastic valves. Features. Use for drip irrigation or sprinkler systems. Six buttons with large integrated LCD.
Controller run times from 1 minute to 12 hours in 1 minute increments. Can be connected into pipe thread configuration. Easy to read LCD display with AM/PM clock and program icons for navigation.
more features. How to order Model Description 2006i Single Station Battery Operated Digital Controller with 3/4 in. Conversation Actuator Product specifications. Operating pressure: 20 to 125 PSI. Recommended operating pressure: 20 to 80 PSI.
Temperature range: 38-130°F (3-54°C). Assembled with 3/4' adapter and washer, with 1' adapter and washer included in the package. Non corrosive materials. Solenoid: 6-12 VDC, two-way latching, normally closed using two wires Programming options. Watering duration from 1 minute up to 11 hours and 59 minutes. Duration can be set in one minute increments. Watering frequency: can be programmed for an hourly, daily, or weekly schedule.
In weekly schedule the controller can be programmed to operate on any days of the week such as Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, with up to four start times. In cyclical schedule the controller can be programmed to operate any day such as every one day up to every 30 days, or programmed to operate every 3, 6 and 12 hours. This option is useful for new plantings. In this cyclical schedule, the controller can be programmed for one start time only. Box Contents qty description 1 Battery operated controller with factory pre-assembled actuator to convert a 3/4' Champion and Orbit manual brass anti-siphon valve ¾” 1 1' adapter to fit 1' Champion and Orbit manual brass valves, 3⁄4' and 1' Rain Bird manual plastic valves, or 3⁄4' and 1' Orbit plastic valves 1 Large seat-washer to fit 1' Champion and Orbit manual brass valves, 3⁄4' and 1' Rain Bird manual plastic valves, or 3⁄4' and 1' Orbit plastic valves. About The 2006i battery operated irrigation controller with 3/4' actuator is factory pre-assembled to convert a 3/4' Champion and Orbit manual brass anti-siphon valve to automatic operation.
In the package you will also find a one 1' adapter and washer to fit 1' Champion and Orbit manual brass valves, 3/4' and 1' Rain Bird manual plastic valves, or 3/4' and 1' Orbit plastic valves. NOTE: Please select proper adaptor. Programming: To program the controller use the six programming buttons with the four upper buttons used for programming, the button on the lower left used for manual on/off and the button on the lower right used for rain off, or to stop irrigation when it is raining Battery This battery operated controller requires one 9-volt battery (alkaline battery recommended). To install the battery, lift the blue controller from the skirt or sleeve it sits in and use a firm pressure to lift the battery compartment cover in the back of the unit. Insert a new 9-volt battery and lock down the battery in place. The polarity is marked for direction. Replace the battery compartment cover in its proper place, ensuring a triangle is formed on the underside of the controller.
Insert the controller back into its skirt or sleeve. Review the instruction manual included with the unit for details. Installation into a PVC pipe or to pipe thread. Shut off the water supply. Remove the manual stem from the existing valve. If you are converting an anti-siphon valve, temporarily remove the anti-siphon cap (you will install the actuator and the cap together).
Replace any existing worn washers with the new ones provided. Install the controller with the actuator into the manual valve and at the same time install back the anti-siphon cap, using a wrench. Tighten firmly, but do not over tighten. Rotate the flow control clockwise until completely closed.
Turn on the main water supply. Press the manual on/off button to test the controller. A click will be heard indicating the valve is open (a manual operation icon will appear on the lower side of the screen). At this time water cannot flow as the flow control is turned off. Now, rotate the flow control counter clockwise, one turn at the time until the valve is operational and all sprinklers/sprayers are working evenly and to your satisfaction.
Press the manual on/off button again to turn the controller off. A click will be heard indicating the valve is now closed and water flow will stop (The manual icon will disappear and the valve will close). Program the unit. NOTE: If water continues to flow, turn the flow control slowly clockwise 1/4 turn at the time. Repeat steps 5-9 if necessary. Review the instruction manual included with the unit for details. Please let us know if these instructions were helpful to you by liking it or providing feedback below.